Porto is often recognised for its dark and undeniably alluring draw as a city and in many ways we could make the same comparison to its rising native and gifted fashion designer Ricardo Andrez. Having studied in Cooperativa Árvore and later in Citex, Andrez founded his own label in 2006 with a focus on menswear. In particular, he has become widely commended for his mastery of textiles and the sophisticated, fearless ability with which he can adapt and reinvent sports wear and urban wear.
Inventing new concepts in fashion can often be difficult for designers, but what others see as a challenge has become an elusive fascination for Andrez. Each collection presented by the designer shows relentless commitment to a story or theme that has been carefully constructed with the chosen textiles and materials.
Provocateur with a Message
Inspiration strikes Andrez just about anywhere – from brutalist architecture to anonymous people he meets in the street, from greek mythology to the fetish world. The result are collections that fall far from convention: Who could forget his S/S 17 show entitled “Perhaps” that sent models down the runway in Morph suits? Or “Venus as a Boy” that followed in Fall/ Winter of the same year, showcasing a break from the classic aesthetic of beauty as encompassed in Greek mythology. Instead it explored novel views on gender and social identity through contemporary sports and streetwear with deconstructed track pants and zip adorned tops combined with patchwork details featuring blush pink latex.
As diverse as Andrez’s aesthetic may be, his collections usually have one thing in common: they push boundaries by asking often provocative questions that not only translate into one of a kind designs, but use fashion as a tool for social change.
His latest S/S 18 collection “Machinist” referenced a surreal 80’s shipwreck of a Japanese cargo delivering 5,000 vehicles sunken off the coast of a Porto beach on a Summer’s day. Needless to say, his execution did not disappoint – silhouettes took on dreamy hues of pink nudes and flashes of green metallic with blocks of red against a canvas of the designers signature sportswear designs.
We don’t know about you, but we’re thrilled to see what comes next with this unique #StreetStyleRebel.
Catch Ricardo Andrez at #StyleOutLoud on March 8th in Teatro Capitólio, where he’ll be teaming up with one of our performers to create a new music and style experience.
Collection photos: Ugo Camera (c) ModaLisboa
Title photo: Street Style Creative (c)